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Topic: sick fish need help please (Read 516 times)
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core 1
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Posts: 43
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thanks Jayone,yes ,water is pumped from the bottom for the changes.I ll go clean the filter again, with pond water and add the ammonia lock.Are my nitrate levels of 15 ppm ok?
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Bradley Bradley
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Zero nitrite is good news. Your koi have no chance of brown blood disease. One problem eliminated and we can focus on the cause.
The fact that you have an ammonia reading on a pond that is 6 years old ( I assume the filtration is of a similar age) does suggest to me that you have had a pH crash. The use of rainwater has been a part of the cause, so I say save the rainwater for washing the car etc, and use the dechlorinated water for the pond. The small reading of nitrate is fine and tells me that you do have a partially working filter. An ammonia reading indicates that the filter bacteria are not converting the ammonia fully. A pH crash means you also have had a population crash of the bacteria that removes the ammonia.
You will need to hold off feeding. Feeding results in an increased production of ammonia. Reduce the feeding will mean an immediate reduction in the amount of ammonia produced. This will give time for the filter bacteria population to get back to a functional level. Once you get the ammonia to zero, you can look at slowly increasing the feed again ie slowly increasing the amount of ammonia produced & hence allowing the filter bacteria to keep up. As you have chemically locked away the ammonia, this will help with keeping the ammonia at bay. One reason the koi are flashing, is due to the ammonia.
You have not said if you have had any more deaths?
Please let us know if the behaviour changes.
Also, do you see any evidence of a white film over the surface of the koi? It will be most notable on red and black. When koi have a skin irritation they will produce excess mucus in order to slough off the irritation.
Also, when you can, test the pH in the morning and in the evening and report back the results.
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Disclosure statement: These are my personal opinions and in no way reflect the recommendations or advise of any organization I may be a member, contributor, be employed by or associate with. Follow my blog Australian Made Nishikigoi |
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core 1
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Hi guys, good news,things seem to be improving at last.the smaller fish are more active now but my big girl is still quite lathargic.no more deaths today.Redness seems to be clearing .BB ,i reckon u hit the nail on the head with the ph crash using rain water.The last 2 days ph has been pretty stable since going back to town water .Readings this afternoon are ph 7.5, ammonia .5mg/l still the same,   nitrate 10ppm nitrite 0 .the fish that died yesterday did have a lot of mucus on it.Should i keep adding the ammonia lock if the tests are above zero? Thanks to everyone who replied since i joined yesterday p.s my name is Chris
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core 1
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your right bb,just read the small print with the wifes glasses on .(my arms arnt long enough)double dose is ok.
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gyzmo
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Hi Guys
If you read the label it should indicate its proper usage , i say this because ammo lock does not remove ammonia it locks it up and converts it to a safer form for the fish and also for the bacteria to remove it , because of this you will still get the same ammonia readings for at least 7 days as far as i remember , it should indicate this on the label.
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core 1
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thanks gyzmo,
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core 1
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hi all,just for curiousity,as jayone suggested,I tested my rainwater tank ph is 6.3 , ammonia and nitrite 0 .Town water is ph 7.8 ,ammonia and nitrate 0. Pond tests this evening are ph 7.5. ammonia approx .3ppm. nitate 0. All fish are active now that its dark, but seem to slower during the day and hide under the waterfall.What do you think the reason for this is?Thanks. Chris
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core 1
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thanks jayone,when things get back to normal,I will post some pics of my pond.cheers .Chris
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